So Good Magazine 32, The Magazine of Haute Patisserie by Grupo Vilbo

So Good.. #32

Crossing without a second thought

In all our interviews, we ask chefs about future trends. We want to know what is to come, how our beloved pâtisserie will evolve in the coming years. In all cases, without exception, you speak of a progressive reduction of sugars and fats, of a more sustainable pastry, of an elimination of waste and of a greater and better use of raw materials... There is also a general consensus in pointing out the preferences of the current consumer towards baked products over refrigerated products, doughs over mousses, something that we have been observing for some years now. And more recently, although we fear that it is likely to consolidate, chocolate seems to be becoming less important, due to the worrying and exorbitant rise in cocoa prices worldwide.

In addition to the above, with which we fully agree, we note an interesting path that more and more chefs, both pastry chefs and cooks, are exploring, namely the blurring of the borders between the savory and sweet universes. This is not something new. Ferran and Albert Adrià already dared to confuse both worlds as part of their avant-garde way of understanding cuisine. Now some see that ‘savory’ can complement a sweet offering by bringing unknown nuances, and ‘sweet’ can be a factor of full satisfaction for the diner at different moments of the itinerary of a savory menu.

In this issue, some chefs cross the border without a second thought. This is the case of Eunji Lee and her delicate and elegant individual pastries. Also Julius Persoone and his challenging chocolates, or young Russian Artem Grachev and his shrimp confit with avocado ice cream. As is this case of the master Jesús Escalera, who works magic to link a black truffle ice cream with the earthy notes of chocolate and the old leather-like perfume of vanilla.

And why not?  

CONTENTS

THE EXCITING SUB-ZERO WORLD
Emmanuel Ryon. French refinement
David Wesmaël. The colors of flavor
Jesús Escalera. The essence of good ice cream
Artem Grachev. Depth and emotion through ice cream
David Briand. The common sense of pastry
Eunji Lee. Dangerous innocence
Nuño García. Haute viennoiserie
Paul Yochum. Gastronomizing the donut
Joris Vanhee. Chocolate trails
Michal Kleiber. The journey
Raúl Bernal. A chocolatier on a bike
Pol Marginedas. When myth becomes chocolate
Ash Smith. A big hug on a winter’s night
Jiro Tanaka. Keep it deligant
Mohammad, Wassim y Omar Orfali. Twinning cuisine and patisserie
Julius Persoone. More rock ‘n’ roll than ever
Ronald García. What pâtisserie owes to Mesoamerica
Suzette Gresham. Creating memorable experiences for guests and staff is equally essential
Tidbits

MALAYSIA, EPICENTER OF HAUTE PÂTISSERIE
Wei Loon Tan. Malaysian accent
Jeffrey Tan. Being a pastry chef to be happy
Jer Yenn & Jia Yi. Two in equilibrium